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dietwater5 Backside 180


Joined: 03 Feb 2005 Posts: 904 City: Granbury, TX
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Posted: Jul 11, 2006 12:02 am Post subject: bi-level sealing |
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ok so i bought a reed and i want it to last longer or whatever. so i was wondering if everyone who has done this to their board and actually knows what they are doing will give a step by step on how to seal your board GOOD! bc i want this bi-level to last a long as possible. please and thanks.
ps. there should be a tutorial on how to seal your board....  _________________ "Cause I have found, all that shimmers in this world is sure to fade....." |
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urinal mint Backside 180


Joined: 20 May 2005 Posts: 1991
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Posted: Jul 11, 2006 12:10 am Post subject: |
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| i'm curious too! |
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jboss Kickflip


Joined: 22 Jun 2004 Posts: 3210 City: Chalmette
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Posted: Jul 11, 2006 1:33 am Post subject: |
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Supplies:
Marine Spar Varnish (spray or paint can)
Brush
200+ grit sandpaper
Sand the both boards until they are scuffed up and a slight white color. Dust off the remainder good. Paint a coat of varnish on, make sure you get every where or it won't be fully sealed. Leave that dry for 24 hours then repeat the process and wait another 24 hours and it should be ready to ride. _________________ I like to choke when my team needs me the most, no Romo. |
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Palms Pop Shuvit

Joined: 11 Jun 2006 Posts: 130
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Posted: Jul 11, 2006 11:33 am Post subject: |
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| Yup thats how you do it |
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urinal mint Backside 180


Joined: 20 May 2005 Posts: 1991
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Posted: Jul 11, 2006 11:55 am Post subject: |
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should we sand it as soon as we get our bi's?
and the "marine spar varnish"
spar= spray?
please correct your typos if needed.
tia |
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Palms Pop Shuvit

Joined: 11 Jun 2006 Posts: 130
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Posted: Jul 11, 2006 12:34 pm Post subject: |
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wen u get yur boards just sand them w/ about the 200+ grit sand paper.
then you will use "marine spar varnish" thats wat its called, i recomend the kind in the can, (thats wat i used on my board). coat it once then wait 24hours then coat it again, wait 24hours then u can use it |
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urinal mint Backside 180


Joined: 20 May 2005 Posts: 1991
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Posted: Jul 11, 2006 1:21 pm Post subject: |
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| so you need to sand the ENTIRE board on both decks and not just the sides? |
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stompin9s Backside 180


Joined: 12 Nov 2003 Posts: 2385 City: Vail - CO
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Posted: Jul 11, 2006 1:26 pm Post subject: |
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urinal mint, yes. _________________ "it is better to fail in originality than to succeed in imitation." |
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urinal mint Backside 180


Joined: 20 May 2005 Posts: 1991
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Posted: Jul 11, 2006 1:32 pm Post subject: |
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stompin9s, thanks brotherine. never sealed a board really so i want to make sure i know exactly what to do.
just ordered a thomas bi. |
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flict. Pop Shuvit


Joined: 26 Apr 2006 Posts: 145 City: Orlando
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Posted: Jul 11, 2006 1:38 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks for the tips guys, as soon as i get this deck in i plan on sealing it. (That's of course after i ride it once...I can't wait 48 more hours.... Boardstop takes forever to ship as it is!) _________________
www.flictwakeskating.com
www.myspace.com/flictwakeskating |
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Greg T Skeezer

Joined: 13 Sep 2003 Posts: 2448 City: ohio
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Posted: Jul 11, 2006 1:39 pm Post subject: |
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| Well I dont think they even have the decks yet, so it could be awhile till you get it. |
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urinal mint Backside 180


Joined: 20 May 2005 Posts: 1991
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Posted: Jul 11, 2006 11:51 pm Post subject: from another thread. |
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1- remove grip tape and then clean the whole deck with isopropyl alcohol. make sure to get all the stickem off. Through out this whole process remeber the cleaner the better.
2- scuff the entire board with 220 grit sand paper. this is where cleaning the deck really matters becuase if you sand a dirty deck you'll just grind the grime and dirt into the wood and the clear sealent wont stick as well in those areas.
3- If you have many areas that have gone to bare wood go to home depot and get some "Daft" or "Deft" wood sealer (gloss or satin it doesnt matter) it comes in quarts for cheap. Foam brush two coats on. It dries in minutes not hours.
4- Sand again after the wood sealer has completely dried with 220 grit.
5- wipe with a clean rag after sanding to remove dust.
6- Clearcoating. first the main choice of what final clear/sealant to use is what kind of tool you will be using to apply it to the skate. I ve found that using three even coats of marine spar varnish with a nice foam roller ( From Boaters World or comparible store) works great but seem to turn the board and graphics a slight amber color (our brownish). Rolling the clear on leaves the board with a slight texture but makes it a little thicker and stronger. If being clear and crisp is important to you i recommend buying or borrowing a High Volume Low Pressure automotive spray gun and spray three even coats of clear/sealant with the first coat being just a light "tack coat" (it gives the other two coats something to stick to)
7- let dry for 48 hours. Wetsanding is optional at this point. but your board should be shiny enough.
8- Rock the $hlt out of it. and reep the benefits of a kick ass job well done. woot woot
notes: try to do your clear applications at around 70-85 degrees in a low humidity enviroment. the lower the humidity the better the gloss. |
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senorbueno Backside 180

Joined: 28 Sep 2004 Posts: 1593
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Posted: Jul 12, 2006 12:00 am Post subject: |
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| Never ever had a problem with shipping from boardstop... they've always gotten everything to me in a couple of days. (This may take a while depending on when theyg get the decks however) |
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McLOVIN Backside 180

Joined: 03 May 2006 Posts: 1673
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Posted: Jul 12, 2006 10:03 am Post subject: |
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| flict., the bi levels arnt even at boardstop yet |
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McLOVIN Backside 180

Joined: 03 May 2006 Posts: 1673
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Posted: Jul 12, 2006 11:28 am Post subject: |
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| urinal mint, i was about to post that same thing did u get it from devotid? |
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PIRATE Kickflip


Joined: 11 Jul 2006 Posts: 2651
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Posted: Jul 12, 2006 12:34 pm Post subject: |
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Hey man one thing you might want to do to make that bad boy last longer is try and put some ruber gromets/gaskets anywhere metal is touching the wood. When you tighten it down its going to break the seal of the Sealant, by putting down some ruber gromets or gasket's it will keep the metal from squashing the wood, and it will also Keep the bolts snugg....
Go to your local autozone and ask for a gasket making kit, or for some ruber gromets for bolts..... anyway got luck guys.
-Livermore
p.s I think this is KEY in making it last long. No matter how much selant you put on there, the coating is going to crack eventually wherever its coming in direct contact/stress with the bolts....... I dont know why they didn't do this to begin with. _________________
| jacque_mehoff wrote: | PIRATE, electricsnow, Retard Reed,
What a threesome this would be!. |
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urinal mint Backside 180


Joined: 20 May 2005 Posts: 1991
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Posted: Jul 12, 2006 1:01 pm Post subject: |
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word. let's get all the tips/help we can in this thread.
thanks pirate, and welcome back. |
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PIRATE Kickflip


Joined: 11 Jul 2006 Posts: 2651
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Posted: Jul 12, 2006 1:06 pm Post subject: |
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urinal mint, does that make sense to you ?? Or do i sound high.
wait why am i on here again ?? _________________
| jacque_mehoff wrote: | PIRATE, electricsnow, Retard Reed,
What a threesome this would be!. |
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lake weir ocala FL Backside 180

Joined: 06 Jun 2005 Posts: 1241 City: Ocala
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Posted: Jul 12, 2006 1:37 pm Post subject: |
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PIRATE, you make sense _________________ -Jordan Schwaller
LwC. Ride for Life. PAVT .. Since 06'
| Iamjesse wrote: | | wakeboarding is to wakeskating is like sex with a condom... it just feels better when you dont wrap up!!! |
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Greg T Skeezer

Joined: 13 Sep 2003 Posts: 2448 City: ohio
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Posted: Jul 12, 2006 3:35 pm Post subject: |
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| Makes sense to me. Don't skateboard riser pad theoretically do kinda the same thing? To avoid stress cracks? And also to raise the board up obviously. |
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